Writer’s Block

Writer’s block is something of which I am familiar. Personally, I have never had the pleasure (notice my tongue embedded firmly in my cheek) of experiencing it, at least until a minor surgery last November. For some strange reason, all words, thoughts, and ideas, from that point forward, were slurped from my brain like dust bunnies removed from the corners of the cabin by a powerful vacuum cleaner. A giant void persisted, at least until just the other day. At that point in time, back at home, I decided to have a seat in one of our favorite “lake chairs” and enjoy the afternoon sun and – hopefully, quietude. My desire was to contemplate the results of our recent trip back to my favorite lake: Kabetogama.

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When it Comes to Memories

I have already penned another article (The Finest of Times) regarding my ties with the lake; for myriad reasons, it remains at the top of my list when it comes to memories. And after all, it had been five years since our last trip there. The reasons for that gap are essentially irrelevant. Suffice it to say that I needed to return in order to ascertain whether or not absence had truly made my heart grow fonder of that retreat. Short answer: it did. Thus, the need for some reflection.

Something that almost anyone can concede, at least in regard to a vacation in the Northwoods (be it Wisconsin, Minnesota or anywhere else), is that, at least at times, the silence can actually be deafening. And that is one of the most powerful excuses for me to head there for a vacation.

Sure, there are the nightly quivering call of the loon’s woeful song There is also the occasional daytime interruption of an outboard motor as a fisherman heads out for the day. And there is the whistling and whipping of the wind through the pines during an occasional storm. But there are also the calming sounds of the lake water lapping against the rocky shoreline.

Prevailing Silence

There is the distinct cry of an osprey circling high overhead, and the crackle of a wood fire on the shoreline that illuminates a moonless night. But, other than that, the prevailing silence that generally persists is unmistakable and ever-present. And this is especially obvious out on a distant island or rock point, which is where I have spent endless and memorable hours over a time period of some forty-odd years. Some of those hours have been with my parents, some by myself and most have been with my wife. All are priceless and irreplaceable.

So as I sat serene – back at home in the afternoon sun – my mind drifted to one particular morning on our most recent trip. We sat on an ancient outcrop of granite on which we had enjoyed numerous, previous breakfasts over past years. The most recent of which was on our return trip to the lake during the first week of this September. If I could have special-ordered a day as spectacular, it could not have been more perfect.

Sounds of Silence

The early September sun was brilliantly bright in a clear and azure-blue Autumn sky. The wind was negligible and the lake was as calm as I could ever have imagined it. Not a boat was in sight as we pulled up to the landing spot on the rocks as we had done countless times before.

I could see it as if I were back there – without even closing my eyes – and I was waiting to hear the “scree – scree” of the eagle that had been circling that day. I smelled the moss, the fallen and drying pine needles, and the small, portable grill as it heated. The trees were gently tipped with the early colors that warned of the coming winter.

Suddenly Interrupted

Unfortunately, the squealing of car tires from a recently dismissed high school student suddenly and rudely interrupted my daydream. Returning from the rudeness to the sounds of gently lapping water on the shore, I was once again interrupted, this time by wailing sirens from a fire engine and paramedic ambulance, racing to an auto accident.

I drifted away again and remembered the smell of pork sausages and the sizzling crackle of onions and peppers on the grill… A pair of lawn mowers roared to life just down the street. Screams from at-home preschoolers interrupted my visions of a bobber floating gently alongside my waiting boat. The flight of the season’s last squadron of pelicans was diminished by the thwack-thwack-thwack of a nearby roofer’s nail gun.

Ad-Nauseum

There were motorcycles claiming dominance of the local street, jet planes in a landing pattern, car doors slamming, and rpm-excited car engines revving to the extreme. Add leaf blowers demanding the attention of newly mowed grass, cell-phone conversations of those hapless pedestrians who needed to be heard, and poorly-shifted-cars clamoring for maintenance. Include jackhammers rat-a-tat-tatting on unforgiving pavement. On and on, ad-nauseum the atrocities came… and continued. I am sure you can understand.

Those were the sounds of silence which I had come to cherish and treasure. They were shoved, rudely and with little reverence, into the depths of my mind. There they would have to reside until next year, or at least until a quieter moment was at hand.

While I suppose that particular and memorable silence is the real reason that many of us take a vacation in the first place, the other and more forgettable noise upon our return is truly the impetus for planning next year’s retreat. It is also the reason that I hope to see you On the Lake! Until next time…

R. Karl

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Super Bowl XVIII Coin Toss

Internet searches are often truly amazing. Sometimes they lead us on a wild goose chase. Other times they coax us away from an innocuous topic of interest, drop us in front of a treasure trove of information and offer an idea for an unthought-of story. Such was the case just the other day when I searched for a small piece of information about a former NFL football player who is now a sports media figure…

Suddenly, right before my eyes was a little gem that I had never expected to find. Pre-game activities at Super Bowl XVIII, in Tampa, Florida in 1984 – certainly nothing like the present-day circus that accompanies the event – paid tribute to George Halas, former head coach of the Chicago Bears. I am a die-hard fan of the Bears, as was my father before me.

There would not even have been an NFL without Halas. More interesting though was the fact that the coin-toss that year was accomplished by none other than Bronko Nagurski, an all-time legend in Bears history and football in general. (Nagurski played for Halas’ Bears) Several things instantly happened within my mind.

Small Fry Football League

A flood of memories took me back to when I was eight years old. A number of us neighborhood kids had assembled a group that started to play football, trying to emulate what we watched on television. Our fathers, responding to serious concerns voiced, no doubt by our moms, that we would, among other things, knock each others’ teeth out, organized us into a real team. They shelled out their own money for proper uniforms and equipment, and eventually organized us into the first “Small-Fry Football” league in our local area.

In the next few years as the number of teams grew, we all got bigger and stronger. And, for the majority of us, our love of the game grew as well. Mine certainly did, by leaps and bounds. I was fortunate to have come from good stock.

My father was a lanky six-feet-two and, dripping wet – in high school, anyway – weighed perhaps 180 pounds. He was a three-sport athlete, excelling in football. By the time I got to high school, my “gifts” included quickness, speed, and agility. I needed those attributes, as I was just shy of five-feet-ten (including the half-inch added by my shoes) and weighed about 160 pounds.

Dream Not Realized

I never stopped dreaming of playing professional ball, right up through my senior year in college when it finally became clear that, for a number of reasons, I would likely not realize my dream. Importantly though, back then I saw football as a game played by guys who simply loved the game.

But I digress… So, what does all that have to do with Bronko Nagurski? Patience, my friends. My point (in case you were wondering just where the heck I was headed with all this) was that just seeing the name Bronko Nagurski also took me back to 1972, the year I graduated from college.

By the very nature of life, high school and college years often tend to create incredible space between fathers and sons. My dad and I had gotten pretty far afield from one another by the time I graduated.

Bronko Nagurski’s Favorite Place

My father had likely wanted to reconnect. And thus, informed me that he wanted to – as a graduation present – take me to northern Minnesota to go fishing. The lake to which my father took me was Kabetogama, 25,000 acres of natural beauty. As it turned out, that lake was Bronko Nagurski’s favorite place to go fishing. He even had a cabin there that he used when he went hunting and fishing.

My father once pointed out the cabin to me. I can only describe it as incredibly rustic, but I knew it was a special and quiet place for Bronko. The cabin was only accessible by boat, except during the winter months, and then Nagurski would traverse the lake ice to get there.

According to Tim Watson, life-long resident, and fishing guide on Kab: “The Nagurski cabin was on the point just south of the Ellsworth Rock Garden. As you boat into the gardens, there is a reef on the right-hand side with a steel post on a tripod marking the rock. I call that Nagurski’s reef. The cabin was right on the point directly in from the reef. Wood frame cabin with a red roof. To me, that’s Nagurski’s Point“. View a map of Kabetogama and the location of Nagurski’s cabin. (Special thanks to Voyageurs National Park for providing this picture of Bronko’s cabin on Lake Kabetogama)

Naturally, my father also wanted me to see the gas station in International Falls that Nagurski purchased after retiring from football. Bronko also participated in professional wrestling to supplement his income. Football players, even those as good as Nagurski, made precious little salary back then.

1932, Fate, and the Northwoods

At the time, I’m sure that I was not very impressed. Not that Bronko Nagurski was not impressive. It’s more like… well, what is important for a newly minted college grad? I knew Nagurski had played for George Halas and the Chicago Bears, but that was almost fifty years earlier. C’mon. I was twenty-two years old, and I had more important things to think about. To be honest, at the time, I just couldn’t relate.

When the name Bronko Nagurski flashed before my eyes again, I now figured it had more to do with fate. My father’s high school team had won their football conference in 1932; Bronko had played for Halas and the Bears in ’32. I love the northwoods. My father was instrumental in that. I write a lot about the Northwoods, and not an article is written that I don’t wax nostalgic about something I learned as a result of being with my father on those trips north. There had to be a connection. Something made me want to know more about a guy who could possibly be one of the best to ever play the game of football.

Wearing #3 and Playing Fullback for George Halas

Bronislau “Bronko” Nagurski, according to Wikipedia, “was born in Rainy River, Ontario, Canada (November 3, 1908), of Polish-Ukrainian descent, and his family moved to International Falls, Minnesota, when he was five years-old.” That definitely qualifies as Northwoods! Nagurski played for the University of Minnesota Golden Gophers. In 1929 he led the nation in rushing yards and was a consensus pick for the 1929 All-American Team by sportswriter Grantland Rice (who, by the way, was also responsible for coining the phrase “Four Horsemen of Notre Dame).

Wearing #3 and playing fullback for George Halas and the Chicago Bears from 1930 – 1937 (and part of a final season in 1943), Nagurski, at six feet, three inches tall and 225 pounds was huge. Even most linemen at the time were not that big. But he was darn good and very well-respected, both on the football field and off of it. He mostly ran straight ahead and was next to impossible to bring down. It has been said that “Tackling Bronko was like trying to stop a freight train from going downhill”.

A Gas Station in International Falls, MN

In 1963, Nagurski was among the original 17 men inducted into the National Professional Football Hall of Fame in Canton, Ohio. He attended the ceremonies with the ten other inductees who were still alive at the time. All the men got rings, but the jeweler had to make a new mold to accommodate Nagurski’s enormous ring size of – wait for it – 19 ½!

Football has never been kind to players’ body parts. The game made no exception when it came to Nagurski. He suffered from arthritis and multiple knee operations, but he never complained. Finally, in 1960, a tired Bronko Nagurski decided to return home to International Falls, MN and live a quieter, more “ordinary” life (although as I mentioned, he made an appearance – his final public one – at the 1984 Super Bowl to handle the official coin toss).

He opened a gas station in the Falls, too (Pure Oil, located near the corner of 3rd Street and 3rd Avenue) that he operated with his sons. It has been said that after he tightened your gas cap, the only way for you to remove it was with a wrench! He dearly loved the area, hunted, and fished mostly for fun. He even became a fishing guide on Rainy Lake for a while. As for his gas station in International Falls, it is no longer there. The building houses an insurance agency now. There is, however, a Bronko Nagurski Museum there!

Life Lesson

I have been unable to fish Kab since 2009, but now I realize there is an additional motive to return, if for no other reason than to renew a connection that has finally become clear to me. It would be great if we could all take a lesson out of Bronko’s playbook. Live life large and play the game with an intensity and love that is uncommon in today’s world. My father taught me the same lesson many years ago while encouraging me to compete in football, track, and baseball. That mantra is unfortunately noticeably missing in today’s sports.

Nagurski never bragged about his accomplishments. He never danced in the end zone after scoring a TD, he simply handed the ball to the ref. He never made a fuss or complained. Bronko just loved to play the game! Period.

Northwoods Connection

Bronko Nagurski will always be legend, and the image of the humble and gentle giant with steel blue eyes will always invoke what desire and tenacity are all about. From www.BronkoNagurski.com: “After more than a century of football, he remains one of the sport’s truly immortal legends.” Thanks Bronko, for literally reaching from beyond the grave to remind me of a truly a great Northwoods connection, complete with some of the best memories of my father that I have!

Stay tuned… I’m certain there are more Northwoods Connections out there. I’ll be out there looking for them. As always, I hope to see you On the Lake!

R. Karl

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A Little History

There are so many things in life that we routinely take for granted. It would be nearly impossible to even begin to make a list of them.  But there is one little seed, probably first grown in Mexico, that could easily top the list: popcorn.  History books (and online research) will tell you that popcorn has been around for many thousands of years all over the world.

Europeans learned about popcorn from Native Americans, who may have likely brought some of the stuff to the first Thanksgiving.  And although it is generally thought of as a snack to be enjoyed at movie theaters, I suspect that there is a rather large segment of the population who enjoy it on many other occasions.  I am definitely part of that segment. But my zeal for the fluffy white stuff (I don’t care so much for the yellow variety found at ball parks, theaters, etc.) has led me to become something of a popcorn fanatic, and I have searched high and low to find what I consider to be the tastiest and most tender variety.

Sunday Drives, Popcorn and Penny Candy

My story starts way back in the 1950s.  Our family did everything together. We never had a meal unless all four of us (my sister, me, and both my mom and dad) were present.  And it should be obvious to most who can remember the 50s, that back then there were no cell phones or electronic games. We mostly made up our own games, and we pretty much had to find our own form of entertainment.

Our black and white television (color TV had not been invented yet) was generally only turned on when my father watched the news, and never during dinner! Or maybe when the Lawrence Welk Show was on. Also, as a family, one of the things we did was to routinely take a drive on Sunday afternoon. Sunday was definitely family time.

The In-Between Store

There were far fewer cars on the roads back then and therefore little to no traffic and no congestion.  One of the most oft-taken excursions was the one that took us east to the town of Wheaton, IL.  On the east end of town at 111 ¼ Front St. was a very narrow little store. It was called “the In-between Store”, and it was always making fresh popcorn.  The place was, I think, run by two sisters.

In the front of the store was a selection of penny candy that would have driven most trick-or-treaters crazy…  In the back part of the store was a gas-fired popcorn popper. One of the sisters would turn the hand crank on the popcorn popper, turning out batches of the white ambrosia faster than you could shake a stick (a line that my father used to use – I have no idea where it came from).

The store, which opened in 1921, was in an alley way that was so narrow it was almost impossible for two people to pass each other coming into and leaving the store.  As I recall, a small bag of popcorn could be purchased for a dime.  A medium-size bag was 25 cents, and a large bag – which we always got – was only 75 cents.  We would usually get four of the small bags to eat on the way home, and then dive into the big bag later.  Now those were the days! The store is still there and now goes by the name of The Little Popcorn Store! They have some great T-shirts, ornaments, puzzles and more on their Etsy store.

The Mother Lode

In later years my mom would, on a very regular basis, make a huge batch of corn for all to share.  But of course, then came high school and college and times together were less frequent. So were the Sunday drives to Wheaton and other destinations.  None of us ever lost the taste for good popcorn. We just rarely got the time to enjoy it as a family.

And then, in 1972, my parents found the mother lode.  Returning from a trip to California and driving along Interstate 80, they stopped for gas at a small station and restaurant (called the Cove) near Moscow, Iowa.  My dad, noticing the many home-made pies on the counter, decided this would be a good place to have lunch (and dessert!) before continuing home to Illinois.

They happened to notice that the place also sold un-popped popcorn.  No, not the typical stuff of name-brand notoriety with which most folks are familiar. Just plain old popping corn from Iowa, sold in clear plastic bags.  They bought a big bag and brought it home to try.  And the rest, as they say, is history.  Well, almost…

Road Trip

This was by far some of the best popcorn I had eaten since those long-past days of the Wheaton trips and “Popcorn Sundays”.  This corn was the pure white variety, tender as could be, medium in size and almost husk-less. One of the things that happens with most popcorn: when popped, the shell surrounding the seed breaks into two or three pieces.  The resulting pieces of husk get stuck beneath your tongue, between your teeth or in some other, inconvenient place in your mouth.  They are almost impossible to dislodge!

The other great thing about this corn was that, in every batch, almost every last kernel would pop… every time.  My parents were hooked, and so was I.  The only problem of course was that running out of this treasure required a trip to Iowa to replenish our source.  The good news was that 1) the Cove Restaurant was not that far away – less than four hours by car – and my father was never opposed to making the trip.

Suddenly, Not Quite the Same

My father died suddenly in 1976. Eating popcorn was somehow not quite the same after that, and there were no more trips to Iowa for many years.  Eventually, the trips resumed.  At least for me. Maybe I needed to have my popcorn fix, but I think that somehow it was more than that.  And it wasn’t just that the available popcorn was second rate, although most of what I could find in the local stores was just plain awful.

I think there was a connection that needed to be reconnected.  I would generally make one or even two trips a year and pick up perhaps fifty pounds per trip, as I was now distributing the un-popped corn to friends and relatives who also marveled at how good it was.  Somehow, the popcorn had not changed in all this time. It still had all of the abovementioned attributes, although the owners of the Cove had changed.  I assumed that the new owners kept the original source.  Starting about 1996, I had arranged with the owner to have the popcorn shipped to me. It was easier and I didn’t always have the luxury of the time required to make the round trip.

I can’t even begin to imagine how many pounds of popcorn we consumed over the years.  But who needed to keep track?  All I cared about was that it was easy to procure some of the finest popcorn anywhere.  The owner of the Cove would ship me a box of 25 pounds and include an invoice to cover the cost of the corn and shipping.  I would then send a check back.  Now tell me. Is that business done the old-fashioned way or what?  Interestingly, we would never meet…

The Number You Have Reached…

But then something awful happened.  My call to Jeff at the Cove (all I knew was his first name) was met by a recording that stated: “the number you have reached is no longer in service.”  I panicked.  With no other option available, other than hopping in my car for a four-hour ride, I searched the Internet, finally coming across the article in the Muscatine (Iowa) Journal that created a rather large lump in my throat: “Owners of the Cove restaurant hang up their aprons for the last time today to do something different.”  (to read the article now requires a subscription.) I was crushed.

Having no idea what to do, I scoured maps of Iowa, trying to figure out possible locations where Jeff had gotten his corn.  After two and a half years, I almost gave up.  Having found only one source that came even remotely close, I decided to make one final attempt at locating the source of the best popcorn I had ever tasted since, believe it or not, 1957.

I contacted the author of the article I had read in the Iowa paper.  His name is Chris Steinbach and he fairly quickly proved to me that newspapers, and people, can often do things better than the Worldwide Web!  He listened to my tale of woe and offered to put a small blurb  in the Muscatine Journal (which he did).  Perhaps someone would read it and be able to help.  I admit that I had my doubts, but less than two weeks later, my phone rang.  It was Chris and he had a lead.

To the Source and Connection Restored

My apologies for making you wait until the very end for my “discovery”.  The lead took me to a very small town in the far western portion of Iowa, and the home of Snappy Popcorn.  I managed to have a conversation with the owner and, after listening patiently to my tale, he took the time to check his records and actually located an invoice for popcorn sold to the Cove restaurant. I had found my long-lost source of popcorn!  Obviously, I immediately ordered some.

Now, I can truly say that the rest is history, and this story definitely does have a very happy ending. I now enjoy the tasty treat several times a week.  A huge thank you and debt of gratitude goes out to Chris Steinbach and the Muscatine Journal, without whose help I would not be able to write this article. I certainly could not enjoy my favorite snack!  And it goes without saying that Snappy has a great product.  But my joy goes far beyond that, since the “popcorn connection ” between me and my parents has now been restored.

Make it Snappy!

The City of Breda, Iowa Business page on the Internet states that: “Snappy Popcorn is entirely family owned and is entering a third generation of family operations. Snappy Popcorn is one of the leading distributors of popcorn oil throughout the Mid-West.”

More importantly, the website will allow you to order some Snappy popcorn, in sizes from microwave portions all the way up to fifty pounds.  I bet you already know what size my next order will be.  Snappy Popcorn also has an online store on Amazon. We went the Amazon route and opted in for a subscription which always arrives in time so that we never run out!

You don’t need any fancy equipment to pop popcorn. In fact, we even enjoy popcorn when we travel to remote areas of northern Minnesota. Check out our video below about making popcorn the old-fashioned way! Happy munching!

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St. Paul’s Cathedral

Now I will be the first to tell you that touring churches just could be last on my list of things to do. But I must also tell you that I have now discovered an exception to that statement. Ms. Ruth Spoerri gave us a most delightful and interestingly anecdotal tour of one of the most incredible structures that I have seen.

St Paul’s Cathedral has some fabulous examples -both in marble and in wood – of German sculptures of the disciples and American wood carvings, along with beautiful paintings, adorn the interior of this church that dates back to the mid 1800’s. Ms. Spoerri is a living encyclopedia with a wealth of historical knowledge and is happy to share it with visitors. I was left with a whole new attitude toward churches and history.

We departed the church and took a short drive around the city to view some of its other historic places, its colleges, industries (Mercury Marine Headquarters are also located here!) and fine old homes – many in the Victorian style.

Juke Box Charlie’s

We then decided to stop for lunch at a really neat little venue called Juke Box Charlie’s, a casual, 50’s and 60’s-themed restaurant sporting a 2-story neon juke box and plenty of large-screened TVs on which to watch your favorite sporting event.

An interesting menu – ditto on the atmosphere – and large portion sizes, coupled with prices that are easy on the pocketbook make this a restaurant worth putting on your list. By the way, make sure to order the homemade potato chips – they are fabulous! (Note: Juke Box Charlie’s is now closed.)

Our next stop makes it to the top of Heidi’s all-time favorites list!

Larson’s Famous Clydesdales

After lunch we headed west out of town to Larson’s Famous Clydesdales. Only about 20 minutes from Fond du Lac (in Ripon actually), Cal and Judy Larson put on a show that you don’t want to miss! It is perhaps the quickest 90 minutes I have experienced lately, but a memory that will last a lifetime.

Clydesdales are fascinating horses to begin with. I mean, everybody has seen them in television commercials in association with a certain beer. But have you ever been “up close and personal” with a Clydesdale? Well, here is a great chance to do just that. Just being in proximity of a horse that is 18 or so hands tall is one thing, but being able to actually touch them is quite another. This is especially true if the one that you touch is a newborn! And the Larsons always guarantee to have a baby Clydesdale available.

At the time we visited, there were a total of 11 Clydesdales there; two of them were yearlings and one was a five-day old foal. You’ll definitely want to see the Larson’s Clydesdales. It’s a great show at a horse farm that is as clean as any I have ever seen, and the horses are obviously quite happy there. Larson’s is open 6 days per week from May 1st through October. All I can say is – this is a “don’t miss it” kind of place!

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Villa Loretto

Perhaps the most unique feature of Villa Loretto is the rest of the “family” there… Llamas, miniature donkeys, horses, goats, pot-bellied pigs, sheep, emus, cats, dogs and birds – there are several aviaries inside the buildings as well as peacocks, chickens, etc on the grounds. Whew! Sister Stephen (with the handshake of a lumberjack and the patience of Job) gave us a tour of the buildings and grounds. With the animals outside and the care of the residents inside, she has her hands full… all the time.

Her obviously boundless energy is evidenced by the numerous projects she has going, including a living presentation of the Nativity during the Christmas season and “Fun Day at the Farm” event in August, not to mention nun-driven hayrides, weaving demonstrations, tour busses and constant guests and visitors during all months of the year. It’s a very interesting destination once in Fond du Lac – for children of all ages – so make certain to place it on your list of stops to make!

Wendt’s On the Lake

When we inquired about venues for dinner and specified a Friday night fish fry, we were directed to Wendt’s on the Lake, just a few miles north of town on the west side of the lake. We also got a heads up that the place is tremendously popular and were urged to arrive early.

Having skipped lunch, we were pretty hungry. So, we didn’t have a problem with an “early bird” dinner and headed to Wendt’s at about 5:00pm. Popular was an incredible understatement: the place was wall-to-wall already! We lucked out with a window/lake-view table becoming available after only a short wait.

Wendt’s specialty is perch – which was perfect – and Heidi and I both ordered the “small” portion (“3 butterflys” or 6 fillets) Served with fries, slaw and bread, the portion size was perfect, the breading crisp and light, and the fish tender and tasty. There were plenty of other menu choices that also sounded mouth-watering and I’m sure were just as good (try the deep-fried lobster!). It was easy to see why Wendt’s is so popular – the picnic tables outside for overflow and outdoor dining during the warmer months were also testament to that.

Relaxing, friendly, and casual with well-dressed and courteous servers, this is a place I would go back to any time. Owned and operated by the Wendt family for over four decades, the food and service have earned Wendt’s a well-deserved reputation for great-tasting fish – especially the perch – and seafood.

JD Finnegan’s & Carry Nation

It was still early after dinner and the sun was shining brightly on a warm spring evening when we headed over to check out the 400-acre Lakeside Park. Numerous picnic areas, ball diamonds, a train ride, canoes, a marina, and more are available for residents and guests.

There is also a 40-foot lighthouse and observation deck that was built in 1933, providing an excellent view of the lake and city. We climbed the 70-plus stairs to the top for the view and were not disappointed! Although it was early in the season, we witnessed hundreds of people picnicking, walking among the beautifully landscaped areas and fishing along the canals that run through the park.

After the climb to the top of the lighthouse, our thirst got the better of us and we decided to stop at the Historic Schmidt Sample Room – aka JD Finnegan’s – for a libation. OK… it wasn’t all thirst. We wanted to see the place where Carry Nation came to swing her ax and cause a disturbance in 1902. Neat little bar and great place to stop. Note: The bar is still there, although it is now called Third and One Sports Bar.

We crossed the street and returned to our hotel – the Ramada Plaza Hotel (now known as the Hotel Retlaw, Trademark Collection by Wyndham) – for a nightcap and some live music at the Tru Blu Lounge in the lobby area. The hotel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places; it has great style, is extremely clean and is a great place for a restful night’s sleep.

For business guests, there is high-speed Wi-Fi and a business center available in this 132-room hotel. There are also meeting and banquet rooms and a 7000 sq. ft. fitness center with a pool and plenty of workout equipment. It was only 9:30pm, but Heidi and I were both exhausted from a long day, so we headed up to our room for some well-deserved rest in preparation for another busy day tomorrow.

Schreiner’s Restaurant

Bright and early we headed over to Schreiner’s Restaurant for breakfast. Much larger on the inside than it appeared on the outside, Schreiner’s has been a Fond du Lac tradition since 1938 with its fresh bakery products, homemade soups and entrees and excellent service. The restaurant is the proud recipient of numerous awards on an annual basis.

After some dynamite Roast Beef Hash and eggs for me and an eye-appealing and tasty Asparagus Quiche for Heidi, owner and president Paul Cunningham gave us a tour of the impressive kitchen.  (It says the kitchen is open for tours… right on the menu!). It was huge, extremely clean and ran like a well-oiled machine, which it would have to. Ours were only two of about 1,500 meals served that day… and every day – about a half million per year!

Thanking Paul and his fine staff for a super breakfast, we headed to St. Paul’s Cathedral.

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Too Short of a Tour

It was hard to ignore the cameraman just outside the U-505 submarine exhibit entrance. He was no doubt offering what I knew to be souvenir photo op’s. But Heidi and I headed down the ramp and to a doorway cut into the port side of the sub. Here was where the tour was to begin.

Less easy to ignore were the other dozen bodies crammed into a space on the sub that would otherwise have comfortably accommodated about eight.

The tour lasted only about 15 minutes, and another tour group was pretty much right behind us. Also, we were told that we were not to ask any questions on the tour. I assumed that was because the whole tour was choreographed. Likely necessary so that the descriptions by the tour guide could be matched to background sounds that were piped in. They were designed to make one feel as if he/she were actually on a real sub.

Though the tour was overcrowded, too short, and time-constrained, it was nonetheless interesting. It was reason enough just to actually be inside a German U-boat. That part is worth the additional charge necessary beyond admission to the museum that is charged just to get to the boat.

Cramped Quarters

We were surprised at the cramped quarters and tiny kitchen area (I’m not sure if someone could prepare meals for 6 there on what appeared to be nothing more than two hot-plates – let alone 59 hungry submariners!).

Not only was the U-Boat much smaller than its American counterparts, but the inside also seemed even more austere. We were, however, amazed at the amount and quality of woodwork, which seemed to give the boat a very comfortable atmosphere. Is that even possible on a machine such as this?

Aft Torpedo Room & Capture of a German Enigma Machine

A look at the aft torpedo room – where one of only two internal hatches had been left intact (to allow for easier passage between compartments) – was followed by our exit from the boat on what was a much-too-short tour. But outside was a wealth of artifacts and additional information to read.

Standing next to the U-505, I could almost feel the tension that must have existed. Tension not only while the boat was on patrol, but during her capture toward what ultimately became the final months of the War. Because without the capture of the boat and a German Enigma machine, along with a mountain of secret documents, the War could have dragged on for many more months, perhaps years.

As we exited the exhibit, we entered a small room with a video and plenty of pictures that showed how the sub was moved to its new location. There was another room that housed one of the anchors from the boat, as well as a listing of contributors and contributions allowing the sub to be placed into its new home. It was immediately obvious that no expense was spared in what had to have been a Herculean effort to relocate the U-505.

35-Million Dollar Project

My feelings of wonderment, nostalgia, awe, and respect – for both sides of the conflict, as well as for the efforts of those who got the sub moved and re-conditioned – were suddenly sucked away as we were confronted by first a gift shop, and then by the walls full of pictures (obviously for sale) of those who had been photographed prior to touring the sub. I know all this is simply marketing strategy, but I don’t like the feeling that I will need to buy something to remember my visit to the U-505.

For anyone at all interested in history in general, or in the history of WW II, the sub is a must-see. This is for many reasons. And it was incredible to view the engineering marvel of moving a 252-foot long, 37-foot wide, 700-ton vessel almost a half-mile from her original “berth” on the south side of the Museum to the new exhibit hall. This was a 35-million-dollar project.

More than 24 million people have visited her since she was first brought to the Chicago shores of Lake Michigan back in 1954, and up to two million a year can enjoy her in her new digs. And if by chance you have read or may be interested in reading the book I mentioned earlier (Shadow Divers), then you will really want to take a tour of the U-505. I’d like to tell you more about the book, but I’m afraid that I would ruin at least part of the true story that begins in 1990. Good reading!

R. Karl

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Arriving at the Museum, it was easy to see the spot where the sub was hidden underground on the north side of the building, for the grassy area was verdant and nothing else was on the site above-ground. But first…

Note: If you’re heading to Chicago to see some sites, it might be worthwhile to check out CityPass. You can save up to 48% off regular rates on the most popular attractions – including the Museum of Science and Industry , the Adler Planetarium and the Field Museum!

The Zephyr… and Then the U-505

Parking was easy , and only $12 “back then” (now $15 – $29 per day) – and we entered from the ground floor. This is where the restored Train known as the Zephyr was on display. (If you are interested, there is a dinner train in Spooner, WI , where a restored Zephyr is available to ride!) We secured our tickets and headed up the stairs to the main floor.

The airplanes were still attached and hanging from the high ceilings. The ever-popular coal mine exhibit was still there. There were also several other, memorable exhibits that still graced the halls. Other exhibits beckoned, but my desire was to go straight to the sub.

Our journey to the sub’s underground resting place was loaded with information for visitors to read and listen to, as well as watch. Several hologram presentations reenacted a few of the more memorable moments in the sub’s capture. Famous Chicago newsman Bill Curtis’s voice behind video clips detailed the history of how submarine warfare and our relentless pursuit of German submarine “wolf packs” impacted the outcome of World War II in the Atlantic.

T5 Acoustic Torpedoes

Finally arriving at the sub, herself, was very cool since she had been given an extensive facelift after many years of degradation due to infamous Chicago winters, and she looked almost new. Paint chips had been computer-analyzed in order to match the original paint job.

The conning tower had to be removed in order to keep from requiring another 30-40 feet of depth for the sub to fit in its new resting place. The conning tower and periscope were displayed off to one side of the boat.

A chill went through me as I gazed upon the four bow torpedo tubes and one of the infamous and secret T5 acoustic torpedoes displayed hanging in front of the sub. I tried to imagine the horror felt by American seamen observing – too late – the telltale trail of bubbles just before the torpedo made its fateful impact.

The Fateful Click…

Heidi reminded me that certainly it was no less horrifying for the German sailors who would hear the fateful “click” just prior to a depth charge detonating at a depth of over 200 feet and wonder whether or not they would soon find themselves entombed forever in the icy cold at the bottom of the ocean.

I also tried to imagine the thoughts of the deep wreck divers as they fought deepening narcosis. This from nitrogen inhaled at great depth and pressure, as they tried to enter a silt-filled mass of twisted pipes, wires and other dangers that lurked on a sunken German submarine lying on her side, as they attempted to determine the identity of the sub at the bottom of the ocean off the coast of New Jersey. (Recall the book Shadow Divers, from my article: Museum of Science and Industry.)

Next Up: Read about the ultimate capture of the U-505 and the capture of the German Enigma Machine.

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The Impact of the Museum

It doesn’t really make a whole lot of difference when I first visited… What matters most is the impact it had on all of us. Interestingly enough, the impact was felt immediately by some, and for the rest of us, well, let’s just say that it took a little longer. But what is important to know – and especially for those of you who are teachers, or Cub Scout leaders, or even… gulp… parents, the impact is undeniable. It does take place. And the result is forever.

For me, the impact of the Museum was like a charcoal briquette, smoldering unnoticed for, ahem… about 40 years. It is hardly fair to choose but a few of the thousands of wonderful exhibits that are found there. But the exhibits I remember most from my youth were the Coal Mine, the Echo Chamber, and the Living Body, among others.

Note: If you’re heading to Chicago to see some sites, it might be worthwhile to check out CityPass. You can save up to 48% off regular rates on the most popular attractions – including admission to the Museum of Science and Industry, the Shedd Aquarium and more!

The U-505 German Submarine

When I first set eyes on the inside of the U-505 submarine, I had no idea of the tremendous impact that it would eventually have on the way I viewed history. History in general and museums in specific. I actually despised and had no interest in history back then. I only knew that my father (who was a Seabee in the Navy) wouldn’t talk much about the “War to End All Wars.”

The briquette suddenly began to glow many years ago when I visited the Wisconsin Maritime Museum in Manitowoc, Wisconsin. I toured the USS Cobia submarine that is docked there. I can only encourage you to visit the museum yourself and tour the sub, and then ask you how you feel. It is a very cool, and very special place!

A German U-Boat off the Coast of New Jersey

I do know that the briquette burst into flame this past summer when I finally got a chance to read Shadow Divers, a true story about two deep wreck divers who discovered in 1990 – at a depth of about 240 feet – a German U-boat, some 60 miles off the coast of New Jersey!

Then came the revelation that the old and rusting U505 in Chicago had been given another chance at “life” at the Museum of Science and Industry – she had been completely redone, and the Museum had provided a brand-new home for her, some 40 feet underground. The exhibit encompassed some 35,000 square feet of space.

I had to see her once again, especially after reading an article in the Chicago Tribune Sunday Magazine. The article told the tale of her construction, history during the War, her final capture, and of the lives of several of her ill-fated crew, some of whom were still around to tell the story. And so I made another trip to the Museum…

Follow me on my next trip to the Museum of Science and Industry…

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Let Metra do the Driving!

We are fortunate to live in an Illinois town where we are only 10 blocks from the train station. Even carrying an overnight bag, it was an easy hike to the train. We then let Metra do the driving the rest of the way to Chicago. A short cab ride landed us at the Drake Hotel just after 3:30 pm.

It was a warm July day and we decided to walk the short distance to Navy Pier. There we took in the sight of children playing in the fountain and the hundreds – no, thousands – of people of every nationality. Those folks were wandering all over the Pier, taking in the sights, sounds and happenings at the Great Lakefront in Chicago on a gorgeous summer day.

Actually, it was the very last day of the “Taste” and Navy Pier was probably not as busy as it may have normally been. We bought tickets for a ride on a sort of super-large speedboat called the Sea Dog for an architectural tour along the Chicago River. The next tour was not for another 45 minutes so we stopped and had a beer at Charlie’s Ale House.

Note: If you’re heading to downtown Chicago to see some sites, it might be worthwhile to check out CityPass. You can save up to 48% off regular rates on the most popular attractions – including an Architecture River Tour!

Through the Lock System on the Sea Dog

The Sea Dog holds over 100 people but there were only about 30 on our tour. Our first stop was the Lake itself and we took about a 15-minute ride along the lakeshore. The lake was calm compared to what I have occasionally seen. Today the chop came from the myriad of other boats plying the waters on what was a picture-perfect day. We weren’t going all that fast, but the heavy boat made for some great splash-up and spray!

Our next stop was the lock system that keeps lake water from flowing into the river (the river level is actually lower than the lake). The process takes about 15 minutes after entering the lock. Once the gates are opened, about a million gallons of water flow from the lake into the river. According to my calculations, the locks are opened and closed about 2 – 3 times per hour during busy days. That’s a lot of water! The boat could actually be seen to be lower by about 18 to 24 inches.

Overwhelming Variety of Architectural Styles

Once in the Chicago River, the tall buildings blocked much of the sunlight, and the air temperature was markedly reduced. Buildings towered overhead and suddenly the variety of architectural styles was overwhelming. The noise and hustle of the streets above were no longer noticeable and we seemed to be in another world. I don’t think it is possible to really notice the beauty of the buildings from anywhere else in the city.

We snapped picture after picture while in the background our tour guide continued his soliloquy about the three-dozen or so buildings he pointed out. Looking at the all the buildings and cruising from the lake, down the South Branch of the Chicago River and back again, I began to feel a whole new appreciation for the City of Chicago and its rich heritage of architecture and engineering.

We walked back to the hotel, showered, changed clothes, and strolled to a nearby café for a late evening snack. After that, we returned to the hotel and collapsed onto the bed for a welcome night’s rest. We had crammed a lot into that short day but as I drifted off to sleep, I could not help but feel glad that I had agreed to the trek.

Breakfast and Back Home Again

The following morning, we enjoyed a complimentary breakfast that came with the upgrade to our room. We took a quick tour to view some of the hotel areas we had not seen yesterday, checked out, and headed back to the train station. It was going to be another 90-degree day in Chicago, but we still chose to walk. The ride home was relaxing and gave us plenty of time to let our senses and thoughts review the 36-hour respite.

We had been gone just about a day and a half and the total cost was around $220. This included a night’s stay at a top Chicago hotel, an architectural tour for two, breakfast for two, dinner for two including tip, and a taxi ride from the train station to the Drake Hotel.

Show me somewhere you can go for less than $100 a day per person anymore and I’ll guarantee that it won’t include much! I believe we got a lot for our money. And although we did a lot of walking – which obviously helped to keep the cost down – I didn’t really mind. It was a great way to see what we wanted to see, and the exercise was something we probably needed. It was a truly fun time and an easy “getaway”. Thanks for reading! Enjoy an excursion for yourself whenever you get the chance!

R. Karl

If you’re a fan of great architecture, Frank Lloyd Wright Sites is a website you might like that highlights the Frank Lloyd Wright buildings around the United States and lists information about tours, overnight stays and even some properties that are for sale! View the complete list of Wright buildings in Illinois.

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Unsure as to whether we would be able to make the trip east, we planned to join the clan for a luncheon in Okauchee, Wisconsin, a small town on a lake of the same name near another small town, Oconomowoc.

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A Great Place to Stay

The destination is only about ninety miles from home in the Fox Valley of Illinois, and getting there was once a fairly easy undertaking. However, one of the most direct routes forces one to use State Route 47, a road that has seen an incredible increase in traffic over the last dozen or so years. An additional half-hour of driving time is now required. We had decided to head up on Friday and take advantage of one of the fish fries that Wisconsin is so adept at providing.

Leaving at 10:00 am, we had expected to encounter less traffic. It still took almost an hour and a half just to get to Lake Geneva. But there was no hurry, and the late February day was filled with bright sunshine and an azure sky to boot.

We had booked a room at the Hilton Garden Inn on the outskirts of town and right off Interstate 94 (the exit was just opened in early 2011). Located on a plot of land called Pabst Farms, the hotel is a relatively new addition to the area, open for perhaps only three or four years (as of this writing)

According to their website, Pabst Farms is “a unique and inviting 1,500-acre master-planned community unlike any other development in Southeastern Wisconsin. It offers all of the conveniences and amenities of an urban area in a breathtaking Lake Country setting which is only 40 minutes to downtown Milwaukee and 45 minutes to Madison.”

Pabst Farms

Unfortunately, the Pabst Farms development appears to have taken a direct hit from the economic downturn before it was totally developed. Plenty of open space however, remains. Nevertheless, the area offers many recreational, dining and shopping opportunities, and the hotel has 100 comfortable and new rooms.

Early check-in allowed us to settle in to our room and head down for a brief workout in the exercise room, followed by a relaxing session in the spa. A change of clothes and we were ready to do some exploring!

Brennan’s Market

Within easy walking distance is the Market Place at Pabst Farms. With a Pick & Save food store, Huntington Learning Center, and a Starbucks (they seem to pop up everywhere) – to name just a few – the Hilton is nicely located and convenient. And just around the corner from that is Brennan’s.

For the uninitiated, Frank Brennan opened a fruit stand in Monroe, Wisconsin in 1942. He later added cheese and then other items like wine, beer, bread, and vegetables. All were — and still are – purchased direct. Freshness and quality were a guarantee. Now in five locations and still growing, Brennan’s offers some of the finest food items available. I have a very hard time passing one if I see it. Even if I go in “just to look”, I always come out with something. (Note: Brennan’s is now closed. There is a link to an article about the company and it’s closing at the end of this article.)

This time was no different. In addition to about five pounds of various cheeses and some other items, I purchased my first pasty. Yep, that’s the “Pasty” mentioned in the very first sentence above. Its history is unclear, but the pasty is sort of a pot pie without the pot, so to speak.

A pasty consists of ground meat, onions, potatoes, carrots, and rutabaga that are folded into a pastry that is crimped on one side. It was supposedly a favorite lunch of Cornish miners. I had heard of a “pasty” but never tasted one. And I was excited to have found them at Brennan’s. So, I bought a pair to try for dinner when we got back home. They are now a favorite of mine and I hope to find some locally that I can try.

Golden Mast

A little help from a map of Oconomowoc and, of course, a GPS, and we located the restaurant where we were to enjoy the luncheon on Saturday. Out of several other interesting possibilities, we decided to try dinner there as well. Nestled up to the southwest corner of Okauchee Lake was a restaurant called the Golden Mast. Complete with dockside mooring for summer boaters, the restaurant was a study in dark wood, massive beams, and great food.

A touch of German lineage ensured that the dinner was replete with tasty rye bread, Cole slaw and potato salad to accompany the fish fry. The dinner, by the way, also came with French fries and a potato pancake! Both our dinners (lake perch for me and steamed cod for Heidi) were excellent and we departed the restaurant quite sated. The following day’s luncheon was just as good, and more time needed to be spent in the exercise room to ensure that at least some of the excess calories were burned!

Fun and Relaxing Journey

We also took advantage of the Hilton’s kitchen and dining room to enjoy a great breakfast before departing on Sunday morning. Heading south on Route 67, we noticed a collection of cars in a parking lot near a small lake just south of Oconomowoc. I made a mental note to be sure to plan an ice-fishing excursion to this area in the near future. There are several more restaurants I’d like to try, and I know that I’ll be planning another stay at the Hilton Garden Inn.

It was a fun and relaxing journey, and nice to be away from work for a few days. Sort of an out-of-the-way place, to be sure. But if you’re looking for a getaway with lots to do in any season – a place that isn’t too far from Illinois’ Fox River Valley – Oconomowoc might just be the place you’re looking for!

R. Karl

Resources, Links and More

• Brennan’s Market to Close After 75 Years

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